逐夢者The Dreamers

 
TOKION Magazine, pics from TFS

Cult icon Chloë Sevigny is Living proof that the nineties are here to stay.
小眾教主克露伊：九零年代精神不死！在下就是活生生的証明！

If Chloë Sevigny could do it again, she would have taken that role in Legally Blonde - the movie, not the musical. But the 34-year-old icon is fine with inching into the mainstream, particularly as her astounding street credibility defies expiration. There was the comfortable upbringing in Darien, Connecticut; the internship at Sassy; the Jay McInerney profile in The New Yorker; the streak of independent-minded performances in films from Kids to Dogville; the Oscar nomination for Boys Don't Cry; and all of the elegantly backward and forward style choices that have defined her public persona.

愛的再告白：如果可以重新來過，小克會答應【金髮尤物】的那個角色－我們可不是在說音樂劇。芳齡三十四歲的時尚教主龜速爬行於主流邊緣，怡然自得；特別是她的街頭叛逆聲望終於修業期滿、揚眉吐氣。出生於Connecticut州的Darien；莎西雜誌實習；傑在紐約客為她打響名號；【衝擊年代】及【狗村】釋放小克陰地靈魂；奧斯卡提名【男孩別哭】；一堆雜七雜八的優雅選擇，勾特出這位特立獨行女演員的假面。



At the time of our meeting, in an empty bar during the daylight hours of an East Village weekday, Sevigny is at the end of her hiatus from Big Love, readying to shoot the 4th season of the critically acclaimed HBO polygamy drama. She has also completed 3 films: Mr. Nice, a biopic about the hashish smuggler and counterculture icon Howard Marks (played by Rhys Ifans), in which she appears as the long-suffering wife; Werner Herzog's true-crime story, My Son, My Son, What Have Ye Done; and her first comedy, Barry Munday, about a man who "severs off his bottom privates."

禮拜三早上，在紐約東區一間乏人問津的酒吧裡，小克利用【三棲大丈夫】休息空檔進行訪問。【三棲】進入堂堂第四季，這部一夫多妻劇再次打響了「這不是電視！這是HBO！」口號。同時，小克馬不停蹄的完成了三部電影：【好好先生】：關於聲名狼藉次文化指標人物Howard Marks，小克是備受委屈大老婆；荷索真實案件改編電影：【我兒，我兒，你造了什麼孽？】；及她生平第一部喜劇：【拜瑞盲天】，關於一個閹掉自己的男人的故事。［*重點是這是小克和Judy Greer的第一次合作！請原諒我亂翻片名哈哈哈。］



Over the course of the conversation, Sevigny says she does not believe she is the descendant of 17th-century French aristocrats (Madame de Sevigne and so on); shares that her parents bought her Martin Margiela cloven boots from IF Boutique in SoHo for her 18th B-day (she made her own version of a Margiela outfit, involving a twig, for her high school graduation); and graciously recites some of the lore of her extraordinary formative years, particularly the relationships that led to her association with Kim Gordon's streetwear line, X-girl.

對話中，小克說她不相信自己是十七世紀貴族後裔（賽芬伊夫人云云）；分享父母在她十八歲生日，於蘇活區精品店IF購買Martin Margiela 牛蹄靴給她（小克為了高中畢業舞會，混搭專屬Margiela 衣裝 － 加了根樹枝）；不疾不徐講述自己的神話故事 － 特別是與音速青春當家主唱 Kim Gordon 街頭服飾品牌「X女孩」的關係。



She also discusses her fashion project, called Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony, which delivers its second collection this fall, a unisex line that serves boys and girls a selection of leopard-print cardigans, dyed thermals, resurrected Bass two-tone loafers, and perfect wedge buckle boots that look like they creeped out of the stock room at Trash & Vaudeville. Like the debut installment in 2007 - a striking capsule of women's pieces distinguished by a carefully calibrated awkwardness - the work is not about fantasies of adulthood but the reinvention of adolescence. It's an exceptionally pure product, coming from a woman with unparalleled tale of youth. And it's all the result of Chloë offhandedly mentioning her interest in collaborating with the downtown boutique Open Ceremony to a fashion reporter. Co-owner Humberto Leon called the next day.

小克談了她的時尚合作，叫做【小克為了Opening Ceremony】，第二季準備於秋天發表上市。這次的款式標榜男女皆可穿 - 豹紋羊毛衣、燙染衣飾、捲土重來懶佬皮鞋、以及彷彿從Trash & Vaudeville 倉庫逃出來的完美金屬釦環靴。如同零七年的第一季產品 - 驚人的女性服飾集合，小心翼翼標準化古怪，適合出類拔萃的女孩 - 這些衣服不幻想昂首闊步轉大人，而是後青春的詩。對於慘綠少年的純粹禮讚，出自一個擁有太多青春記憶的女人。這場品牌與美人的相遇，全都因為小克曾經向一位流行記者，表達和Opening Ceremony合作的渴望。第二天，合夥人Humberto Leon沒打錯電話。


What other things do you want to do that might benefit form a press mention?

這麼屌！還有什麼是你想做的？可以藉由媒體傳話！

I don't know. You think if I say it, it will come true?

莫宰羊。你覺得我點燃火柴願望就會實現嗎？

You mentioned that a collaboration with a high-end fashion company would interest you.

妳提過想和高檔時尚公司合作。

I'd like to do accessories, maybe bags or shoes. But if I do clothes, it will always be with Opening Ceremony. I'm not a designer. I'm not going to do high fashion. It's streetwear. I just want to make staple pieces that have trendy appeal that people will want to wear every day. I'm no Balenciaga. I'm no Nicolas Ghesquiere.

我想做配件，也許包包或鞋子。但如果是設計衣服，Opening Ceremony永遠是我的首選。［*真是太忠心了！這怎麼可以！］我又不是設計高級訂製服的設計師，我設計的是正宗街頭服飾。小克只想用大頭針選擇布料過過乾癮，搞出時尚風味讓大家天天都想穿。本人既非Balenciaga，亦非其當家設計師尼可拉斯。

Are there any good untapped collaborations left?

小克的百寶箱裡還有什麼點子？



I have a couple vintage NaNa boots that I've been wearing a lot lately, and  they're so good. But I don't even know if that company still exists. I would like Opening Ceremony to reissue all the old Vision Streetwear. And I want to do something with Levi's, like jackets or an old straight-leg, kind of skinhead-style jean. We actually talked to them before Opening Ceremony, but it didn't work out.

我有一些復古娜娜靴，愛不釋手，她們超好走。但我甚至不確定那家公司還在不在。我想要Opening Ceremony重新推出古老款式街頭風。如果可以的話，小克想和李維合作，像是夾克及復古直筒、光頭黨穿的牛仔褲。其實在和Opening Ceremony合作之前，我們有和李維談過，但計畫沒有成功。

Are you pursuing any of these things?

妳是個求好心切，不顧一切要到手的女孩嗎？

No. I've never pursued much in my life [laughs]. Things often kind of happened. I mean, I'm very focused and I work hard at what I do, but almost every job I've ever had, they've offered. (應該是they're offered 吧) I've never gotten a jof off an audition. Even though I audition a lot, or have.

不是耶，小克一生中從來沒有追求過什麼東西（呵呵）。很多事情就這樣水到渠成。我的意思是，小克專心工作，熱愛表演；但幾乎每一次電影演出，都是他們捧著劇本等本姑娘點頭答應。小克常常試鏡，應該說曾經常常試鏡；但大部分到手的演出機會，都是從天上掉下來的禮物。［*翻到這裡，筆者都要翻桌了！］



Never?

從來沒有嗎？！［*訪問者應該也快要翻桌了！］

Maybe Last Days of Disco.

恩讓我想想 ...【最後迪斯可】好像是我試鏡拿到的角色。

So you don't set your sights on something and go after it?

怎麼聽起來，妳沒有什麼目標和企圖阿？

Really ambitious people sometimes frighten me. I meet lots of other actresses, and they're just so hungry for it. It scares me a little. I mean, I have ambition and things that I want to do.

太有企圖心的人讓小克心生懼怕。我遇過太多女演員，她們對於演出飢渴到不可思議的地步。真可怕！我的意思是，我也有企圖心和想做的事阿！但何必搞成這樣？



What are the references for the unisex collection?

談談這次男女混搭的作品系列吧！

The genesis of the whole line was that I wanted to find a pink flannel. I was searching eBay and every vintage store that I go to, all of my haunts in NY and LA, and I couldn't find a pink flannel. So I decided to make a menswear line so I could make a pink flannel. It's still not the perfect pink flannel, but it's pretty good.

整個系列的想法來自小克的困擾：我想要一件粉紅色法蘭絨。千里尋衣 - 小克找遍了eBay和每家我知道的二手古董衣店，蹤跡遍及紐約洛杉磯，仍不見粉紅法蘭絨。於是，我下定決心打造男裝服飾系列，DIY粉紅法蘭絨。雖然它不是我心中的完美襯衫，但已經不錯了啦！［*已經很好看了真的！］




The blouse Dave Gahan(上圖) wore in Depeche Mode 101 was another inspiration.

流行尖端合唱團主唱大衛在專輯【101】裡穿的短衫是另一項啟發？

I wanted to make that silk shirt [laughs]. In 101 he wears this billowy white silk shirt in all the concert footage, and I'm in love with him and the way he looks in that movie.

我想要做絲絨襯衫（哈哈）！在【101】裡，影像紀錄著大衛及那件白色百威襯衫。我就是這樣愛上他的，我愛他在演唱會影片中的樣子。



And the book Skins and Punks by Gavin Watson?

蓋文的那本【光頭黨及龐克】呢？

Yes. The shapes, the knitwear, the bomber-style jackets and three-quarter overcoats. The silhouette of the way the skins used to dress. My friend in Italy who works for Vice, which published it, gave it to me. But I had seen the original Skins, his first book, when I was 18 or something. Harmony [Korine] and I had it. I actually used a lot of the images when I designed the costumes for Gummo.

喔天阿，書中的造型圖案、編織品、緊腰短夾克及中長大衣。黑白影像紀錄光頭黨的衣服演進史。我在義大利Vice工作的朋友把書寄來給我，這本書也是他們發行的。問題是我已經看過蓋文的第一本書、原版的【光頭黨】了。那時我十八歲，小忍和我擁有那本書。在小忍處女作【奇異小子】裡，我用了很多【光頭黨】裡的圖案。［*小克是【奇異小子】的服裝設計！］